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  • You sent me here from ebay. What am I looking for?
    All of the information contained in the FAQ is useful to anyone working on their cart. Many answers to common questions are located here. Also located here is the SHOP link on the top of this page. There you can find things that are not available on ebay.
  • I need help. Should I call or email?
    I get a lot of emails about stupid quesitons. There are NO stupid questions. I'd rather you asked 100 questions and got it right than asked none and get the wrong product. It cost me money, you money and both of us time. That being said, the single best manner of contact is email. While I would absolutely love to personally speak to each and every single one of you about your carts, I simply do not have the time to do so. We are a small, family owned shop. I make all the cable kits myself. The reason for this is, quite simply as the old adage goes, "If you want something done right, do it yourself." I have tried letting others simply cut the cables to length and strip them, while I would solder and finish. And well, I simply wasn't happy with the results. I want it done right for you the same way I'd want it done right for me. That being the case, it is very hard for me to pull off working on orders and talk on the phone. I have found over the years that each phone call I take averages out to over half an hour. Some folks get right to the point and it's done in 5 minutes. Others just keep talking and talking and talking and while I enjoy conversing with them about their carts, it makes my turn around time on orders suffer. I want you to get your product in 3 busniess days or less, preferably less. I generally take all orders placed between 5pm EST and 10am EST and get them made, packed and shiped by 12pm EST the following day. In cases of high order volume, that can turn into a one day delayed shipment. Our mail carrier picks up around 12 noon. Sometimes she's early, sometimes she's a little late. Mostly she's spot on 12 noon or earlier. In many cases, I have taken orders to my home mailbox as it runs about 2 hours after my office just to get them out same day. So I want you to know that requesting you to email rather than call is not to try to avoid talking to you, it is to keep the orders flowing as quickly as I possibly can. When you send an email, please include the following; The year of your cart, the make and model of your cart, the serial number (if possible) and the drive system if you know it. For example, it could be a 2006 EZGO TXT with the PDS system serial number 123456xyz. (that isn't the actual setup of EZGO serials, just a random example) Or, a Club Car Precdent 2009 with the IQ system serial PQ1209-XXXXXX (that is the exact way the Precedent IQ serial would look) That information GREATLY aids me is assisting you. If you don't have it, no worries. I can figure it out from the year in "most" cases. If all else fails, and you simply feel that you have to talk to someone, then call. I my certainly am not saying don't call. Even I feel the need sometimes to call a vendor. But please keep the calls short and to the point as much as possible in order to better facilitate your order, and everyone else's orders in a timely manner! I can't guarantee you that you will speak with me, however you'll get someone who will try to facilitate your needs. Thank you!
  • How strong are your cables?
    Our cables are designed to be the strongest available on the market. We have had many customers who have sent us photos of their carts after a rollover where their battery hold downs broke and ejected the battery pack however the cables held the pack together saving from a complete disaster. Here you can see an EZGO rollover where the roof, windshield and mirror were broken off. As you can see, the batteries were ejected however they did not scatter. The connections were so strong that the controller was actually ripped off it's heatsink mount intact. After a thorough inspection, the cables were determined to be unharmed and were reinstalled during the rebuild and still run today.
  • Why should I use bigger cable?
    Your carts cables are like the highway that the electricity from your battery pack travels through. The bigger the cables, the lower the congestion to slow it down. Factory cables are typically 6awg. We upgrade to 4awg or 2awg based on your setup. When we create a larger path for the power to travel down, it means we incur less resistance which means less heat. Less heat means more power is used for motion. And all that makes for a longer lifespan for your batteries and electronic components!
  • Why should I buy Soldered cables?
    Pictured above in the "How strong are your cables?" is a cart that experienced a rollover accident. The owner had purchased and installed a set of our cables a few weeks before. The battery hold downs failed, ejecting the batteries from the cart. The strength of the cables was put to the test during the ejection, and they held the entire pack of 6 batteries together and kept them from launching out and possibly injuring any passengers. The cables weren't designed to be put to this kind of force, however it only proved the strength of the soldered joint and added an extra layer of safety in the event that an accident should occur. No one wants to take a bath in acid! There are two main types of cable connections; Soldered and Crimped. In some cases, some companies will crimp the cable and then apply some solder to the exterior joint. What we have found, after reading many studies on the topic and through our own trial and error, is that soldered joints are the preferred method and seem to hold the best bond over time through repeated heating and cooling cycles. NASA uses soldered connections on their space vehicles. If it's good enough for NASA to send humans into outer space, we feel it is the best connection available. We only use the highest quality Silver bearing electrical solders in our connections. And on a side note here, the owner of this company spent 20 years owning an automotive repair facility. Crimped connections are prone to failure. New age cable makers generally use a hydraulic crimper which is, without a doubt, far superior to the older hand crimping method. Even knowing this, we still feel that the soldered connection is superior to any style of crimp connection.
  • Should I have heatshrink on my cables?
    There are a few companies out there that claim heat shrink traps corrosion. To put it bluntly, they are idiots. Heat shrink is used specifically to stop corrosion. They want you to buy their cables, suffer corrosion related failures and come back to buy more. And to show that, I've included a couple photos. Cables that had no heat shrink, cables that had heat shrink, and the difference is obvious. The first photo shows three cables from one cart. They are shot. And the corrosion runs into the shielding and was about 8 inches deep. The second photo shows the one cable on that cart that had heat shrink. I removed it for the photo. You can see that the corrosion was stopped dead in its tracks right where the heat shrink started. The lug has lost all of it's tinned coating where it was exposed to corrosion, and looks like new where the heat shrink was covering it. Heat shrink is critically important to protecting your cables should corrosion become present. Cables without heat shrink are simply a future expense waiting to be replaced. Do not ever buy or use cables without heat shrink. I hear people say, well my factory cables didn't have heat shrink? Well, to that I say they were also the smallest possible size that would work and most overheat and melt batteries during residential use. The big manufacturers build things to last 3 years. Why 3 you ask? Because that's how long the warranty lasts. After that, they want things to fail. That keeps you spending that hard earned money on repairs, or drives you to want to buy a new cart.
  • Why not use cables from the auto parts store?
    Shown above is a set of cables purchased from an auto parts store. They were removed from a cart that came into my shop with a melted battery post. Cables designed for cars use about 25 strands of 14 gauge copper wire. These are designed to send one big jolt of power to a car's starter to get the engine running. Once the car is started, those cables aren't carrying any load. When used in a golf cart, the cables are placed under immense loads and simply are not capable of handling the amount of heat generated. Ultimately, they will fail and you'll end up with a melted post on your battery which will cost you more than a set of quality cables would have to begin with. We use premium quality welding cable to create our cable sets. Our 2 gauge cable has 624 strands of 30 gauge cable in it. This is designed to handle up to 600 volts. The ultimate goal is to use cables that offer very little resistance and dissipate heat to stay cool. Many people get away with auto style cables for a few years, but sooner or later they will fail, they will melt a battery post and you will be stuck replacing the battery and at least that one cable. Our cables are made from cable designed to be used in welders. These premium welding cables meet or exceed the SAE J1127 standard, which requires minimum copper amounts per gauge, appropriate sizing for specific applications, and testing for mechanical and performance characteristics. Maximum conductor operating temperature is 105°C in circuits not exceeding 600 volts. Minimum temperature rating -50°C. As you can see, this cable is designed to handle the harshest of conditions and still perform to the highest standards.
  • I see cheaper cables that are advertised like yours online?
    In everything in life, there will always be those searching for cheaper. Cheaper cars, cheaper cokes, cheaper toilet paper (not a product to skimp on!) Cheaper is exactly that, cheap. Some things you can buy cheaper and be ok. Some things you buy cheaper and you get what you pay for. People selling cheap automotive grade cables don't care if your batteries meltdown. They really hope they do and when that happens, the cable gets damaged and you'll buy another one from them. I can't even begin to tell you the number of MAJOR golf cart companies selling those crappy automotive grade cables. It baffles me when I see it, and when I ask why they say that same line.....people wanted the cheapest ones. Can you get something similar to what I make for less? Absolutely without a doubt. Will they help you down the road when you have a failure and need some guidance? Not a chance. They will happily sell you all the overpriced parts you want, all the cheap junk cables you want, and love to charge you $150 to come out on a service call. I go above and beyond to help my customers diagnose and fix issues they run into during their ownership of a cart. I don't sell these people carts, I sell them cables. The issues may be controller related, or motor or some other component but I still take the time to help them to diagnose and repair their problems. Call another vendor and ask them for diagnostic help and see what they say. Mostly you'll hear crickets chirping in the background or someone laughing at you or they'll just hang up. I sell only the highest quality cable that is made is the USA, silver bearing solder for the ultimate in conductivity and high quality heat shrink to keep corrosion at bay. Just so you all know about the automotive grade cables. They generally have 20-25 strands of 14-16 gauge wire inside. They are designed to take one mammoth jolt of power to turn the starter on your car and afterwards those cables no longer carry any load. The cable from the alternator carries the load after starting. And the alternator cable is more closely associated with the type of cable we use, which is designed to carry a heavy load for an extended period of time.
  • Do you offer other parts?
    I have access to every part made for golf carts. However I am a smaller fish in a very large pond. In most cases, I cannot resell parts to you with shipping for the price you can find them elsewhere. In some parts, I can match or get very close to online prices. This is mostly items that can be shipped inexpensively. Whereas big players can ship you a backseat that weighs 150 pounds for free, I simply cannot. My margins are slim as is, and when you take shipping and creditcard fees into account I'd be losing money. What I do offer is a level of support that no one else does. I make myself available by phone to assist my customers in any way possible. And when I know I can't get you a product for a good price, I will point you in the direction of the most reputable dealer with the best price. That's part of my service to you. Many customers elect to pay a little more and buy from me solely due to my level of service, and I greatly appreciate them. Ultimately, I am here to help you as best as possible and will in any way I can!
  • I'm thinking about a new controller, what is the best?"
    That is a very subjective question. Everyone has an opinion about this or that or the other. I will give you my opinion here and you can take it for what you think it is worth. There are two major players in the controller market....Navitas and Alltrax. Alltrax has been around for quite some time, and they offer a lot of different combinations. Navitas is a little newer to the industry, but they put more money into the R&D of their products from the get go piggy backing off the information already known about todays technology. In my shop, Navitas is what we use. Their products are a little more costly, however their technology is, in my opinion, light years ahead of Alltrax. Alltrax became complacent when they had no real competition and as such their R&D suffered. Then Navitas came onto the scene and suddenly Alltrax was playing catchup. My biggest gripes with Alltrax are 1) they have 100 different controllers and 2) their most performance oriented require the use of fans. (EDIT: 2024 Alltrax has since reduced the number of controllers they sell, though it is still significantly more than Navitas. They have also copied a lot of the technology that Navitas brought to the market) Navitas on the other hand has two major controllers and offers adaptors for each cart model. This means smaller numbers of expensive stock has to be kept on hand and lower prices can be offered to the consumer. Navitas also does NOT require, nor even recommend, the use of fans for their controllers. Navitas spent a large amount of time, money and effort to create the best possible thermal dynamics so that you wouldn't need fans to cool your controller. That's less crap to wire in, and less of a draw on your pack. At the end of the day, all else being equal, Navitas is the way to go for the best performance, best warranty and overall value for your dollar. When we got a failed Alltrax in the shop, we throw it in the trash and replace it with a Navitas unit. End of story.
  • How do I know you are a legitimate company?
    My company name is CaddyShack Golf Carts of Georgia. While this particular name has only been in use since July 2018, previously we operated another golf cart company under another business we ran that was sold in June 2018 after 17 years in operation. We also sell cables and parts on eBay and Amazon. Our eBay feedback rate is 99%% positive with almost 5000 feedback to date, being in operation for the last 6 years full time. And the number of purchasers on ebay who leave feedback is only about 15% so you can figure that 5000 would be more like 20,000 or more if everyone actually left feedback. Our Amazon store is much newer and didn't come online until 2018, but is also 98% positive. You can view our company information profile from the Georgia Department of Commerce website where we are registered. We are located in Cumming, Georgia, about 30 miles north of Atlanta. We have won the "Best of Forsyth" award for best Golf Cart Sales and Service in our area 5 years in a row.....every single year we've been open. That is voted on by the people of the area during an annual event.
  • I want a new motor. Do I want speed or torque?
    In the past, electric motors come in one of two ways....1) Higher speed 2) Higher torque Higher speed motors will get you going faster on the top end. As such, they have reduced torque and won't take off with a heavy load as well, nor will they pull any excessive weight very well. Higher torque motors will pull small trailers, carry heavy loads of people and/or gear up hills with a more constant speed and have no trouble starting on a large hill or incline. In the past there weren't really any options to get both high speed and high torque in a DC voltage system. Today, we have new technologies to offer and the best bang for the buck is the AC conversion kit. Navitas makes a kit that runs about $2200 or so online, give or take with shipping and accounting for inflation. There is nothing better than the AC drive system. Think of it as a mini version of what drives a Tesla car. AC drive systems that are powered with Lithium battery packs are capable of very high speeds. The end user should be careful however, as there are Federal, State and local laws and ordinances that must be adhered to to comply. Failure to comply with those laws could end up in some very bad ways. In this day and age there are ambulance chasing wanna be lawyers on every corner. And they love to take cases where a law has been inadvertently violated. I always recommend that anyone whom I do business with makes sure to familiarize themselves with all the laws prior to operating their cart. We don't want to see anyone hurt nor do we want to see any bad press to the industry.
  • What brand of battery should I use?
    Well, this is more of an opinionated question than anything. What we can determine based on measureable data is that not all batteries are created equally though. I have sold several brands over the years, including Trojan, Duracell, Interstate and a few no name local brands. In the end, I have stuck with US Battery over all others. They sell a quality product, with a solid warranty and have very few issues. (at least in my experience, we've had a realtively small number of warranty claims and a few were really customer misuse) I actually took a few batteries and put them on a scale to see the difference. I weighed Powertron, Interstate and US Battery. Full disclosure, the Powertron and Interstate were used batteries (which probably made them heavier from the build up of sulfates over the years) I included photos of the batteries and the readout of the scale. Powertron showed a weight of 53.9 pounds. Interstate showed a weight of 55.9 pounds. The new US Battery showed a weight of 61.2 pounds. More lead in the battery means more power and longer run time. This is why most carts use a 6 x 8 volt configuration. (and some use an 8 x 6 setup) Powertron, in my opinion, is junk. Interstate is overpriced. Trojan is massively overpriced and is the only battery maker for golf carts that has a replaceable post design. The reason for it you ask? Because they have so many melted posts would be my best guess. I see melted Trojans 10 to 1 over other brands. After experiencing quite a few meltdowns when I sold Trojan, I moved on and never looked back. Don't get sucked into brand name purchasing. Research is your friend here. And if you want to use US Battery, buy the mid line unit like you see in the photo. The 6 volt is the US2200. They make a cheaper black colored battery, but they are the "Economy" line. There are some things you just shouldn't cheap out on. All of the above information was written in 2018 to 2019 and remains true for the most part. I was forced for a period of time to carry Trojan batteries as all the southeastern US Battery suppliers were forced to drop the brand due to distribution issues that I was never privy to a reason for. I sold Trojans for a while with minimal issues, however I still don't like them. US has since returned to a couple distributors in my area and I am going back to US Battery as such. But again, this is my opinion and others may not agree. To each his own is what I say to that. Also new to the scene is the lithium battery. We avoided selling lithium for the first few years as I wanted to know some real world data versus selling to customers based on vendor provided information. To this day I still do not have an answer to the question, "how long will it last?" They really haven't been in circulation long enough for me to give a solid, real answer. The oldest ones I'm aware of were put in some 2017 EZGO carts. At 7 years of age, I have heard of them requiring replacement. But it seems to be that they are lasting at least 7 years and mostly more so far. Until they've been around and in use for a decade or so, it will be difficult to give a reliable answer. As to brands, we initially carried RoyPow lithium. The process to order their batteries was archaic and slow. It took weeks to get an ordered unit and we weren't interested in stocking 10 or more batteries at a time that would have had a very high cost. We moved to Allied when they released the single unit pack. (we are not fans of the lead acid sized versions) Allied has made some advances in the few years we've used them. One of the best options that customers like is the bluetooth connection. It allows you to see the state of charge, amp draw, temperature and some other diagnostic information. While it it mainly useful to the installer many customers like the idea of an accurate gauge on their phone. They recently updated their lithium batteries to have a dedicated COM port for just the power gauge. Previously it shared a port with the diagnostics plug. They have also created a "sleep" mode that will put the battery in hibernation mode if you don't turn it off and leave it in storage. This is a huge improvement as many people failed to turn off the battery pack when it was going into storage, which led to numerous issues. There are other brands out there, and the opinions are no different than they are with lead acid units. A few of them I was turned off to in the early days have made changes that improved things that were poorly done in the beginning. On this I will just say that Lithium battery technology is advancing rapidly and it is hard to keep up with the constant changes. I would simply recommend doing your research before buying one. The one thing I will say I would consider mandatory is not buying anything less than a 105AH pack. Those little cheap entry level batteries are not worth the money. 105AH has been the basic standard for installers, and in the newest lines of carts on the market today they offer 200AH batteries. They are expensive, however they have immense run times and distance capabilities. We are a new cart dealer for Venom carts and they come with the option of the 105AH and 200AH units. Several other makers we don't carry also run the 200AH units. That is the future and I would recommend researching it in depth before making your purchase.
  • The baking soda myth, battery rejuvenators and de-sulfating devices
    For some reason that is beyond my comprehension, over the years I have seen a multitude of people cover the top of their batteries with baking soda. This is a horrible idea. Baking soda is a base. Hydrogen Sulfide is an acid. Any time your mix the two, you are going to get a reaction. First off, it makes a giant cake like mess and it's a pain to clean off. Second, if you cover the top of your batteries with a base like baking soda, then charge your cart which produces hydrogen sulfide gas you will get a foul smelling chemical reaction from the resulting mixture. These are those who are proponents of using baking soda and water to clean battery terminals.....I am not one of them. If you really are to cheap to buy a corrosion cleaner/remover for $5 then just use plain old Coca Cola. The acids in the coke will eat the corrosion and can be wiped away. They will not react with the gases emitted from the batteries during charging. Just as an FYI, when I get a cart in the shop that someone has done this, I charge $100 to clean it up. You may wonder why so much, and the answer is because the resulting mixture is acidic and irritates skin as well as get down in the battery rack on EZGO's with steel frames and accelerate the deterioration of the metal. DON"T DO IT, EVER. Another myth is people selling battery refresher or rejuvenators. They are selling a mixture, usually colored to make it look special, of Epsom salts and water. You can do it yourself for a $5 bag of Epsom salt from your local grocery store. I would save the $5, as it does nothing. People who buy it and say it does are experiencing the placebo effect as they are expecting a change. There is no bringing lead acid back. I don't even believe in De-sulfating units. Nothing revives old or abused batteries. I especially dislike those amber or gold colored battery de-sulfating devices that are wired to the main positive and negative terminals. There aren't much bigger than the size of an apple and have a heat sink looking design. We toss those in the recycle metal pile anytime they come in. They are garbage, don't waste your money.
  • I'm converting to lithium, what cable set do I need?
    So when you convert to lithium, in most cases these days you will get a single unit pack. In the early days they made individual batteries like lead acid that were then wired in parallel instead of series. I was not a fan then of that setup, and I'm still not a fan of it today. The single unit is by far the best method. All vendors offer the single unit today and that is what you should purchase. When you convert to lithium, you will no longer need the cables that interconnect the batteries together. If you have a shunt (or regenerative) system, which is most carts made after about 2010, you likely had 10 cables in your system. Five of them will no longer be needed. Several of the more popular cart sets on our site have been listed for lithium conversions. Even more have been listed for AC drive conversions as well. We try to have all options for all carts, but in some cases the lesser frequently updated models may not yet be on our site. In that case, shoot us an email and we will either create the item for you or create a custom link for your application. One thing I do highly recommend is that you mock up the setup to determine your main power cables into your new lithium battery. It may be in a totally different location than the old lead acid batteries were and we want to be sure that you get the correct size cables the first time. Failing to account for the difference is not justification for a return. One thing we do not do here is free returns. Amazon has created a monster in that department. People seem to think that anything can be bought and returned for no reason other than they changed their mind. Shipping is not free. UPS, USPS and FedEx don't deliver packages out of the kindness of their hearts. We use USPS Priority Mail shipping for most packages. It costs $9 to send you a set of cables. It will probably cost you that much again to send them back. That's $18 wasted and we are simply not eating that. Make certain you order the correct thing! We have had 3 negative reviews on ebay in the last 2 years and two of them are because people admittedly bought the wrong item and were pissed off that they had to eat the shipping. I hate to have to include things like this, but in this day and age of people not wanting to take responsibility for their own actions I simply must.
  • Do you offer custom cable options?
    Yes! We can cut any cable combination you want. We have done cables for everything from Golf Carts to Boats to Classic Cars. Custom car stereo power and ground cables are also available. All you need to do is provide us with the measurements of the cables you want. As they are custom cut specific for you, there are no returns on custom orders.
  • Do you offer sleeving of the cables?
    Yes we can. However it is mostly a gimmick that just costs you more money in the long run. If you really want to sleeve your cables, we'd suggest doing it yourself to save time and money. We aren't real fond of sleeved cables, hence why you don't see them offered on our site. Everyone is always looking to add a new profit center to their sales, and sleeving was something that was created for just that reason.
  • What is the difference between 4awg and 2awg cable?
    We get asked this periodically. Generally, customers looking to save a few bucks are the ones who ask this the most. So the bottom line difference is, for about 15% more than 4awg you can have 2awg cables that are literally twice as thick. 4awg welding cable specs are typically about 370 strands of 30awg wire. 2awg welding cable specs are about 634 strands of 30awg wire. You get nearly twice the internal stranding for 15% more money. 98% of our sales are with 2awg cables. It's unlikely you'll ever see a cart that needs cables larger than 2awg. For example, a dealer friend of ours built a Precedent that utilized a Navitas AC conversion kit with a 200ah lithium battery. Using 2awg cables, he was able to achieve speeds in excess of 80mph. This is not normal, required custom programming is not legal for any road in the country. It was just an example of what can be done. If that can be done with 2awg cables, you will never overload them with carts running less than half that speed.
  • What about Lithium batteries?
    This is a relatively new question in the industry. Lithium batteries made their first appearance (that we are aware of) in 2017 in some EZGO vehicles. EZGO went with a Samsung pack for that system. There were some minor wire harness changes that also came with it. The reason I say that is, given that most lithium battery companies are touting 8-10 years lifespan for their products. The batteries installed in 2017 are now 7 years old. So there is no data available for us to compare and offer to you as to the full lifespan differences of lead acid and lithium. We have seen a few of the 2017's already having their packs replaced at 7 years. It is certainly not common, however it has happened. Last we checked, that lithium Samsung pack was only available to EZGO dealers. This may have changed that we have not heard, so this would need verification before stating as fact. As to lithium we deal in, we offer Allied Battery Lithium packs. We considered several of the bigger well known brands and concluded that for the money, Allied offer the best product. We used RoyPow briefly, however their process for ordering was archaic and slow. It took upwards of 2 weeks to get a battery after ordering and that simply isn't acceptable by today' standards. Other brands had very cheap, poorly thought out tie down systems like sending a ratchet strap. If you're spending nearly $3000 then it is our opinion that a $5 ratchet strap should never have even been considered to be acceptable. Other brands had other minor issues. Allied seems to offer a good combination of positives and are very good at standing behind their products. They are bluetooth enabled which allows the user to see the state of charge, temperature and difference in charge between cells. It is also great should any technical assistance be needed as they can diagnose issues through their app. All that said, lithium is the way of the future in the cart industry. We would expect costs to drop over time, however that will be depending on what happens in the automotive markets and global markets as well. At this point we feel it is safe to say that lithium is the way to go.
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